I generally use ATS34 for the majority of my knives.  ATS34 demonstrates excellent edge holding, toughness and stain resistant characteristics.  In many respects, it's an ideal general use steel.

I'm also quite fond of carbon steels, particularly 1095 and 5160.  Either one makes an excellent blade that is extremely tough.  However, carbon steel require a bit more care than a stainless blade.  This is generally not an issue for most users.  I also use A2 steel frequently.  It's a fantastic steel, but can rust if neglected.  I have started using various CPM steels, and really like them.

As for handles, I prefer synthetic materials such as G10 or micarta.  These materials are extremely durable, and impervious to the elements.   My handles are typically textured to ensure a firm grip in any situation.  I also like cord wrapped handles, as they offer a unique grip texture that is quite effective.

I construct most of my sheaths from kydex.   Kydex offers outstanding knife protection and retention while remaining light weight.  I make my kydex sheaths extra tight.  This ensures that your knife will be held securely well into the future.  They will loosen up a bit eventually.

High grinds allow for a thinner overall cross section of steel.  This creates a thin, yet durable geometry that is optimized for cutting.  Simply put, thinner knives cut better. 

My knives are guaranteed against defects in workmanship forever.  I will repair or replace your knife as long as I am an active knife maker.  This guarantee does not cover intentional or accidental abuse.  My knives are designed and optimized for the cutting of soft materials only.  No prying, no chopping concrete blocks, no cutting open car doors, etc.  If you use my knives for these purposes, you will eventually break them.

I describe the style of my knives as modern utility or subdued tactical.  My knives are primarily designed to cut, and exhibit excellent edge geometry.  I occasionally make thick choppers, but I'm better know for making EDC blades.

I generally recommend a small to medium sized fixed blade for basic daily tasks.  I define this size range as a knife with a blade length between 2" - 4".  I have numerous models in this size range.

1/8" or 3/16 is more than adequate for the vast majority of tasks.  I don't see a need for anything thicker for a basic general EDC knife.

I personally carry knives that are 1/8" or 3/32".

Many of my larger blades are 3/16". 

My short swords and choppers are 1/4". 

My machetes are 3/32".

Unless your edge has been damaged or severely neglected, a Spyderco Sharpmaker is the ideal tool for sharpening.  Follow the instructions that come with the Sharpmaker and your knife should be razor sharp in no time.

I can make any of my models with the "Rorschach" finish.  There is no additional charge for this finish.

My "Rorschach" finish will not wear off.  The design is actually cut into the steel, and can only be removed if the blade is reground.

Sorry, but I only produce my own designs unless you have something that is particularly interesting to me.  The enjoyment I get from making knives is quickly lost when I have to work on a design that I don't care for. 

Either method is capable of producing a solid bond between handle material and steel.  Screwed on handles are convenient, and allow the user to remove the handle scales as required.  My kitchen knives and many of my carbon steel knives are glued together to prevent rust and bacteria growth under the handle scales.  The majority of my stainless steel knives are screwed together.

Titanium does not hold an edge to the extent that a steel knife would.  It can be made quite sharp, but edge retention is lower do to the physical properties of titanium.  To combat this, I add a layer of carbide along the edge of my titanium knives.  Carbide is extremely hard, and significantly increases the edge holding capabilities of titanium.

Most of my knives are ground on both sides, but I do make chisel ground knives.  When properly made, I think that the cutting performace of both are quite similiar.  It's mostly personal preference.

Yes!  Overseas shipping generally adds $10 - $15 to the shipping costs. 

However, I am not responsible for items lost or damaged in shipping.  There are simply too many variables.

I ship via USPS Priority Mail, and they will not allow tracking numbers on international shipments.

I make my kydex sheaths to be a bit tighter than average.  Kydex, like any other material will eventually flex/wear, and the sheath will loosen slightly. 

Yes!  The vast majority of my screw construction knives allow the user to remove the hande if desired.  I can use a combination of screws and epoxy if requested.

This is a common problem.  I'd suggest an orange G10 handle if you are concerned about losing your knife.  It does not looking like anything you will find in the woods, and will be easy to spot if dropped.

Certainly.  However, this option will add approximately $70 to the cost of the knife to cover the handle material.  The handle material is custom made, one piece at a time.